Fort Worth Just Might Be the Biscuit Capital of North Texas
Highly stacked trays of golden biscuits – each split, filled with crispy chicken and drizzled with sauce or blue cheese dressing – only appear for a split second from a sash window wiped away by satisfied college-aged kids. The long picnic tables at Ben’s Triple B are filled with glistening brioche burger buns, crispy sweet potato fries, and cookie sandwiches of every variation. Students from Wesleyan Texas sit between the joystick game consoles. They sip frozen whiskey-cola and sigh in relief into their shortbread biscuits.
When Ben Merritt, the owner of Ben’s Triple B, opened his first restaurant – Fort Worth’s bar and brunch favorite fixture – in 2015, he said nobody knew much about cookies. Back then, starting a business that focused on cookies was a risky game. Now? The Fort Worth food scene is littered with new cookie joints, each with its own Mediterranean comfort.
Ben’s Triple B (cookies, burgers, and beers) was the first restaurant to emerge from the Rosedale Renaissance Project, an initiative between Texas Wesleyan and the city to redesign the historic Polytechnic Heights neighborhood. While many chefs may have resisted the idea of opening a restaurant this far off the beaten path, Merritt fell in love instantly when he saw that the building was intended for Ben’s Triple B. The counter-service restaurant oozes arcade nostalgia, the perfect scene for Merritt’s dense butter-based biscuits. Although Ben’s Triple B appeals to a different audience (college kids) as a fixture, Merritt’s finesse is present in every affordable menu option. Merritt’s second company, however, is just the tip of Fort Worth’s Kekseiberg.
Butter your biscuit
Ben’s Triple B.
3020 E Rosedale St, Fort Worth
Hot Box Biscuit Club
313 S Main St, Fort Worth
Linger over coffee & cookies
3113 South University, Fort Worth; Other locations in Burleson and Crowley
The biscuit bar
128 E Exchange Ave, # 640, Forth Worth; Additional locations across Dallas
The dusty biscuit
Airstream trailer at 105 S Main St, Fort Worth
(Cookie in the name, but these are fritters.)
For Fort Worth, 2019 was a year for cookies. In January, burleson-based cookie and coffee company Dwell moved into the old Sovereign Bank building and graced the 1970s building with a now popular off-campus option for groceries. Your buttermilk biscuit and simple, breakfast-oriented sandwich fillings (scrambled eggs, sausage patties, cheddar cheese and the like) complement your coffee offer. Similar to Ben’s Triple B, the room has become an unconventional meeting place for students, where TCU students can eat local jam with one hand on one half of the biscuit and scroll on their laptop with the other.
More recently, the local pop-up restaurant Hot Box Biscuit Club and the fourth location of the Biscuit Bar have arrived in Forth Worth. The Hot Box opened on the South Main last October and has a facade that is reminiscent of a dinner and dates straight from the 1950s. Inside, guests can enjoy Bloody Marys, buttermilk biscuit sandwiches, homemade pickles, and freshly fried chicharrones. If for some reason that’s not enough to fill you up, a stroll down the South Main will get you to the Dusty Biscuit Airstream – a hugely popular Beignet food truck that has just secured permanent placement at The 4 Eleven boutique mall. We know, technically not a biscuit, but we promise the Dusty Cristo (fried ham and cheese-filled beignet slider) is a delicious and not-too-distant cousin.
It’s not surprising, then, that The Biscuit Bar picked Fort Worths Stockyards as its newest location. The biscuit addition Mule Alley opened its doors for breakfast, lunch and dinner in August. Here is a quicker, more casual approach to the homemade cookies with sweet and savory takes. Beer, cocktails, coffee and kombucha are also on tap.
Whether this cookie resurgence is an exercise in nostalgia or a result of the craving for comfort, the addition of four new cookie locations in one year has made Fort Worth a cookie center. From buttermilk to butter, sausage and sauce to a la mode, Fort Worth takes you back to Grandma’s childhood days. Now with a side of cocktails.