Star chef to open Don Artemio steakhouse in west Fort Worth
Avocado toast with cherry tomatoes and poached egg from the menu in the new Don Artemio restaurant.
The former manager of Café Modern wasn’t there for the reopening this week, but he didn’t go far.
Adrian Burciaga works with Coahuila’s most famous cabrito and steak chef for Don Artemio, a Saltillo gourmet steakhouse and restaurant that will open next year at Museum Place.
The third generation restaurateur Juan Ramón Cárdenas, known for his high-ranking Don Artemio in Saltillo, will join Burciaga in a location at Seventh St. 3268 W. at the top of Van Cliburn Way near the cultural district, museums and one upcoming hotels open luxury hotel.
“Imagine a steakhouse with premium steaks and dry-aged prime ribs – the best of Mexican Nordic cuisine,” said Burciaga.
Cárdenas remembered over the phone from Saltillo that eight years ago he had been a guest chef at Café Modern for a wine dinner.
“Coahuila and Texas are neighbors and we share an appetite for good food,” he said.
In addition to cabrito and charcoal steaks, Don Artemio will be known for dishes like striped bass in dark mole sauce or quail in mole poblano, he said.
“We’re all about charcoal,” he said. “Nothing is better.”
Modern advertising for Cárdenas’ visit in 2013 described him as “Mr. Cabrito. “He has published a cookbook,” La Senda Del Cabrito “(” The Way of the Child ” [Goat]”).
Cardenas has also cooked for famous Chicago chef Rick Bayless.
Bayless’ website describes Cardenas as “Mexico’s greatest master of Mexico’s most legendary specialty, fire-roasted Cabrito.”
The last place on West Seventh Street was a poorly thought-out place with Mr. Gatti’s Fort Worth Pizza. However, it was originally planned for a Dee Lincoln Prime Steakhouse.
Don Artemio will add a large terrace along West Seventh Street, Burciaga said, and on the Arch Adams Street side, a wine room called La Cava del Desierto.
Burciaga said he and Cárdenas had been discussing a Fort Worth restaurant for months and saw the opportunity with the museums and the upcoming Crescent Real Estate Hotel across the way.
(The hotel is said to include a restaurant owned by renowned Dallas chef Dean Fearing.)
Cárdenas said his restaurant still cooks with the passion he learned as an adult sitting in the kitchen in a stroller while his family’s restaurant was roasting goat and his mother making flour tortillas and chorizo.
“We serve the dishes from Northern Mexico – enchiladas in mole with white cheese, nopalitos fritos [fried cactus strings],” he said.
“We want to show how good everything can be with high-quality ingredients. Tacos can be very attractive with the right ingredients and toppings. We want to show the best dishes from Mexico. “
He said the only comparable restaurant he knows in Texas is El Naranjo, a high-end restaurant in Oaxaca, Austin.
The construction of Don Artemio is just beginning; Visit the Saltillo location at donartemio.com until it’s almost done.
Opening this week
▪ Café Modern, 3200 Darnell St., has reopened under the catering department of California celebrity chef Wolfgang Puck. themodern.org.
▪ Mariachis Dine-In, 5724 Locke Ave., known for Monterrey-style street tacos and also a vegan version, only reopened for dinner at its new location after moving from North Sylvania Avenue. mariachisdinein.com.
Columnist Bud Kennedy is a Fort Worth man who covered high school soccer at age 16 and attended two Super Bowls, seven political conventions, and 15 legislative sessions in Texas. Since 1985, he has also written more than 2,000 “Eats Beat” columns on restaurants, dining and eating in Texas.